Pellon Quilters Grid 820 Review & Tutorial

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Have you discovered Pellon’s Quilter’s Grid 820 yet?

It is a lightweight fusible interfacing with 1″ (2.5cm) wide grid lines printed on the back to help you line up your quilting/patchwork squares.  Because you fuse your design onto the top of the interfacing before you start sewing, you can quilt quickly, easily and accurately – without pins!

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Why use it?

Whether you are making a whole quilt out of squares and strips, a panel for a bag or purse, quilting blocks to use in mix and match quilt design or other crafty make, Quilters Grid will make your life easier.

  • There is no need to pin your pieces together as they are fused to the interfacing.
  • Once you have plotted your design you iron it into place on the Quilters Grid – ensuring you don’t get bits mixed up between the table and the sewing machine.
  • Because the design is fused onto the interfacing it doesn’t get pulled out of shape during sewing and ironing processes.
  • You sew your patchwork together in lines, rather than pairs, speeding up the sewing time.

How it works…

Quilters Grid is 115cm wide, so it can handle most quilt sizes.   You can use the grid to make up separate quilting blocks and then sew them together, or lay your whole design out on one large piece of Quilters Grid and get sewing!

If you want to make a wider quilt you can butt two pieces of interfacing up against each other, you can always temporarily hold them in place with masking tape on the smooth side, we don’t recommend overlapping pieces as it will add bulk.

Start by cutting out your strips and squares, or visit us at printstopolkadots.co.uk where you can buy almost all our fabrics precut in a range of popular shapes and sizes.

Cut a piece of quilters grid large enough to take all your squares when their raw edges are butted up against each other – THIS WILL BE LARGER THAN YOUR FINISHED QUILT SIZE as it needs to include all the seam allowances.

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Lay your design out on top of the bumpy side of the Quilters Grid, so that the raw edges of each of your pieces butt up against each other – use the grid lines on the interfacing to help you keep straight.

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When you are happy with your design, iron it onto the interfacing.  Use a pressing rather than ironing action, lifting and placing the iron, up and down, across the fabric, rather than pushing the iron around, this ensures that the fabrics stay put.

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Now time to sew your fabrics together to hide all those raw edges 🙂  Fold the top edge of the quilt over along the line where the first two rows of squares meet (along the raw edges).  The fabric squares will be facing each other, and you will be looking at the back of the interfacing.

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Sew (through the interfacing) using your normal quilting seam allowance (measuring in from the folded edge).

We position the fabric so that the fold is in line with the edge of the sewing machine foot, and the needles is in the middle position – see image below.

As you sew you will be capturing the raw edges inside the seam allowance.

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Iron the seam to one side, then fold the quilt/square over along the next line between the fabric squares and repeat. Continue in this manner all the way across the quilt/block.

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Iron again and then start the process over, this time sewing across the join lines between square in the columns.

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Once you have finished, iron the back and turn your quilt over to check that all but the outside edge raw edges are hidden, if you have missed any lines go back and sew them now.

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Check your quilt/block is still square – because you have used the interfacing you should find the block/quilt has not moved very much at all.  Trim back as necessary.

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You can use the quilt top/block as it is, but many sewers like to finish off by snipping into the seams on the back to reduce the bulk.  Some people cut along the creases in the seam allowance so they can open the seam out flat, but we think that is too fiddly.  We prefer to cut the bulk away from each point where the vertical and horizontal sew lines cross.  Simply fold the quilt back up as when you were sewing it – leaving the seam allowance sticking out at the top, and cut little squares out where the seams overlap, taking care not to cut into the main seam line – try it, it is easier than it sounds!

  

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Then press your block/quilt again and all the bumps will have gone!

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It took us less than 20 minutes to make this square, made out of 25 x 2.5″ squares, including planning the design!

Love the fabric?  We used Riley Blake’s Bloom and Bliss collection – vintage heaven!

We love seeing your finished projects so please tag us into your pictures on Instagram #printstopolkadots, or share with us via Facebook or email 🙂


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