This bag was designed to go with the knitting needle wrap available for free here. If you leave the internal pockets out the design works equally well as a reversible bag! We used the gorgeous Madhuri Collection from Riley Blake to make both the bag and wrap – click here to view in store.
18” wide x 15” tall x2 external fabric
18” wide x 15” tall x2 internal fabric
18” wide x 6” tall x2 internal pocket fabric (optional, if one of your other fabrics has no particular direction, buy 18” x 44” and you will have enough fabric for the two main pieces and 2 pockets)
18” x 8” x2 fusible fleece
Approx 80” bias tape or fabric to make tape (instructions included, approx. 9″ x 22″ should provide enough tape).
Still looking at the bottom corner, move the side seam around until it is in the center of the fabric (see image 1), check that the side and bottom seams are lined up inside the bag (image 2). Now measure in from the corner, until you have 2” each side of the seam (blue line) making sure that the 2” line on the ruler continues to run in line with the seam (red line).
Mark this line and sew along it. Then trim and repeat on the other side.
Iron heat n bond lite or ultra on one side, of each of your pieces of flexi firm. Peel the backing off and iron onto the back of the external fabric bag pieces (line up with the top of the bag and the side seams, the bottom of the flexi firm should line up with the top of the fusible fleece). These pieces will strengthen the handles.
Turn the bag out so you are looking at the right side of the fabric, line the tops up and pin together, draw the template onto the top of the bag. Cut out the top shape (NOT the handle). Turnover, line the template up at the top and mark the handle shape.
Take one of you pocket pieces, iron interfacing onto the back and then iron a ¼” seam along the top, fold over again and iron once more, then sew the seam into place.
Place the pocket onto one of the larger internal fabric pieces, right sides facing, with the hemmed (top) edge of the pocket at the bottom and the bottom of the pocket pointing upwards, place the bottom of the pocket 2.5” up from the bottom of the larger piece of fabric. Sew into place and fold back up.
If want to divide the pocket into sections, do that now. We recommend a minimum of putting a 2” pocket at each end, these will end up on the short sides of the bag, they will help the pockets to hang right and can be used for knitting needles. Repeat with the second pocket and large piece of internal fabric.
Place your internal pieces together, right sides facing, and sew the left, right and bottom seams. Box the corners as on the external fabric (mark your triangle at 4”) sew along the line, cut the excess fabric away.
Take your 2 bag shapes, one in external fabric, one in internal fabric. Turn the external fabric bag so that the right side of the fabric is on the outside. Place the flexi firm base inside, followed by the internal fabric bag, so that you can see the right side of the fabric.
Smooth out the internal bag, making sure it is reaching the corners (you could pin the bottoms together if you wanted to), check that the side seams are lined up and then pin around the top of the shape on the external bag. Sew a seam around the top edge, on both sides, then trim the excess fabric away.
Make sure the fabric around the handle is smooth, internally and externally, and that there are pins all around the outside of the handle. Then sew along the oval handle line on each side, cut the fabric out of the middle.
Next make the bias tape for the top and handles, you need a total of 80”, you can buy ready made bias tape or use a fabric of your choice, we used a piece measuring 9” x 22” to make enough tape.
If you have bought ready made bias tape you can skip the next three steps.
Take your piece of fabric, use your ruler to draw a line at 45 degrees (if you don’t have a ruler with angles marked fold a triangle on a piece of paper and use that (see second image). Draw another line 2” parallel to the first one, and continue drawing lines across the fabric, 2” apart. Cut out.
Arrange the strips in order of size, with the largest in the middle, the next smallest each side, then the next smallest….
Fold ¼” over at the end of each piece of tape, and iron the crease into place. Place two pieces on top of each other, one right side showing, one wrong side showing, so that the creases are lined up (see below), sew along the crease. Iron the crease flat and trim the excess fabric away. Then attach the next piece, keep doing this until you have one long piece of tape.
To turn this into bias tape, fold the tape in half and iron the crease in. Open out the fabric and fold the bottom edge up to the crease, iron into place, fold the top edge into the same crease and iron, then fold the whole thing over again (using the first crease) and iron once more.
Fold one of the ends over around ½” and iron flat, open up and then cut the ends into a triangle, finishing the triangle at the crease line. Fold back over and iron once more. Fold the tape up and iron.
Open the tape up so that you are looking at the top raw edge, line this up with the raw edge on the bag (we started at the side seam on the bag), pin into place around the top of the bag and then sew between the raw edge and first crease on the bias tape, using your longest stitch.
Fold the bias tape back up and over the raw edge of the bag. All the raw edges on the bag and the bias tape will be hidden. Sew a top seam using your regular stitch. When you get to the end, make sure the ends are tucked under and sew into place.
Repeat these steps to attach the bias tape to the handle edges.