My boys (6 and 9) love this one, we took it too the hairdressers and McDonalds, first time chess was played in there I think! My 6 year old uses it to play Noughts and Crosses and Draughts, my 9 year old thrashed me at chess – my brain cells definitely left my body with the babies!
Finished Size: Approx 17.5” square.
For the Board (we used flannel as the texture helps the pieces stay put):
2 x 2.5” x 44” strips in colour 1 (for board)
2 x 2.5” x 44” strips in colour 2 (for board)
2 x 2.5” x 44” strips for border
18.5” square batting
For the Back of the Board (we used regular cotton)
18.5” square for backing/outside fabric
26” webbing or ribbon for handles
7” square of fabric for the for pocket
7” strip of Velcro
7” x 3” fabric for Noughts & Crosses board
7” x 3” Heat n Bond Ultra Adhesive
For the playing pieces (we used flannel for the counters and regular cotton for other items)
6” x 44” for the counters in colour 1
6” x 44” for the counters in colour 2
5” x 44” fusible fleece for counters
24” x 2” for the chess piece pictures colour A
24” x 2” for the chess piece pictures colour B
48” x 2” Heat n Bond Ultra Adhesive
3.5” x 18-35” for crosses (depending on method used)
3.5” x 18” fusible fleece for the crosses
We will start with the chess board. Place your 2.5” strips next to each other, alternating colours. Sew the first two strips together, using a ¼” seam, sew along the long edges. Iron the seam flat and then attach the next strip, continue until you have sewn all the strips together.
Place the fabric in front of you so that the strips are running left to right. Fold in half vertically, and then cut along the fold. Sew the two resulting pieces together, so that the strips are all facing the same way and the colours alternate.
Place the strips so that they make up a chess board, and then sew the strips together, iron the seam flat. Take your quilting ruler and check that the edges are all straight and the corners are squared off.
Fold the board diagonally, right sides facing (see below) and pin the borders together. Mark a line from the corner of the checked board to the tip of the border fabric, sew along this line, trim the excess fabric and iron the seam flat.
Continue adding borders and making corners until the whole board is done.
Take your batting, place your board on top and iron flat. Now pin the fabrics together, turn over to check the batting is not creased, adjust the pins if necessary. To attach the board and the batting, sew ‘in the ditch’ this simply means sew over all the existing join lines, you can get away with sewing every second line in the main board, but we did the whole lot.
Square off the board and trim.
Now we are going to work on the back for the board, starting with the pocket for the playing pieces. Take your pocket piece, fold over the left, right and bottom edges by ¼” and iron, then fold each of these side over again by ¼” and iron flat. Fold a ¼” over at the top, iron and then fold over ¾” and iron once more.
Unfold the top of the pocket. Fold the first ¼” crease back over, and then pin the Velcro on the right side, between the top of the fabric and the next crease. Sew into place and then turn the top over again (using the second crease line). Iron the pocket once more.
Take the piece of fabric you have selected for the back of your board and fold it into quarters, iron flat and then open out. Your fabric will now be divided into 4 sections, the pocket will be placed on the top right square.
Place the pocket in the middle of the square, fold back the top of the pocket so you can see the Velcro, and line up second piece of Velcro on the larger piece of fabric. Pin and sew into place.
Place the pocket back into position, pin and then sew around the left, right and bottom edges.
Now put the handles into place, one on the square next to the pocket, one facing that square. Place them facing into the fabric, with the ends pointing out, they should start 3.5” in from the outside edge, and from the outside edge of one side of the handle, to the outside edge of the other side of handle, should be 5.5”. Use your longest stitch on your sewing machine to tack these into place.
Next make the tab for closing the bag. Take one of your pieces of tab fabric and sew 1” of Velcro to the right side of the fabric, near the tip.
Place the second piece of fabric on top, right sides facing, and sew the left and right sides, up to the tip. Turn out at the bottom and iron flat.
Place the tab onto the fabric, on the same square as the pocket, so that the middle of the tab is approximately 6” in from the outside edge. Sew into place using a long stitch. You now need to attach the other piece of Velcro on the opposite edge (Place so the centre is 6” in from the edge, and it ends 2.5” down from the top). Sew into place.
Next add the noughts and crosses grid. Iron a 7” x 3” piece of white fabric onto some heat n bond ultra. Cut into 4 strips, each ¾” wide. Arrange on one of the squares (we used the square diagonally opposite the pocket) and iron into place (you could sew into place with a blanket stitch or zig zag stitch if you prefer).
Now you need to attach the backing fabric to the main chess board. Place the board onto a flat surface, so that you are looking at the front, push out any creases. Then place the backing fabric on top, right sides facing. Pin together, pushing out any creases as you go. Check that the back of the fabric is still flat and then sew around the outside, leaving a gap of a couple of inches on one side. Turn out and sew up the gap using ladder stitch (if you are new to ladder stitch we recommend watching this U Tube Clip (click here).
Now for the playing pieces. Trace the playing piece pictures onto a length of heat n bond, in the quantities indicated on the template. Iron onto your chosen fabric. Cut out your pieces. Repeat for your second set in an alternate colour.
Now cut 32 circles out of one your playing piece fabrics, using the larger circle template. Cut 16 circles out of fusible fleece using the smaller circle template. Iron the fusible fleece onto 16 of the circles, so that there is an even border around each circle.
Take a circle with fleece attached and a circle with no fleece and place right sides together, sew around the outside, leaving a gap for turning out. Turn out, sew up the gap using ladder stitch and iron flat, repeat for all the circles.
Place your playing piece pictures centrally on the circles, peel off the backing and iron into place.
Repeat for the second set of playing pieces. You can use these pieces for draughts on one side and chess on the other!
For the noughts in noughts and crosses you can simply use some of the chess pieces upside down, if you want separate pieces, make them as you did the chess pieces.
For the crosses, you have two options, the first option is to iron fusible fleece onto your crosses fabric, trace the smaller crosses template on 5 times and cut out.
The second option is iron fusible fleece onto your piece of fabric, then using the larger crosses template cut out 5 Xs. Cut another 5 Xs out of the same fabric without interfacing. Put together in pairs (one with fleece, one without), right sides facing, and sew together, leaving a gap at one end for turning out. Turn out, iron flat and then sew the gap up.
You are now ready to play!
Fabrics used: Sasparilla from Riley Blake, flannels and regular cottons, Kona tomato red and banana yellow cotton. Fusible fleece and heavy weight interfacing – all available at www.printstopolkadots.co.uk