Monthly Archives: November 2013

Apron with Tailored Pockets Tutorial – Free Pattern

                   Finished Size: 18” long x 32” wide + ties!


18” x 32” wide for the main apron front.
11.5” x 13” wide x 2 for visible part of the pocket.
11.5” x 13” wide x 2 for the hidden part of the pocket.
85” (2.4 yards) of 2” bias tape or fabric to make this (9” x 22” should give you enough tape).
4.5” x 29” for the waist band
31” x 4” x2 for the ties


Make up your paper pattern pieces as directed on the templates DO NOT CUT OUT THE FABRIC UNTIL DIRECTED (If you are new to making up our templates click here for a guide).

Take your main apron fabric and fold in half, so that the crease appears on the left.  Place the main apron template on top of the fabric, as far over to the right as you can, whilst keeping the whole of the template on the fabric, so that that curve is on the side opposite the fold.  Trace the template and cut through both layers of fabric.  Open out your fabric and place the Pocket (hidden side) template at the top left corner (see below) trace the curve of the pocket (not the straight edges) and cut out, repeat on the other side of the apron.


Put the main apron fabric to one side and take your pocket fabric.  Place your visible pocket fabric pieces together, right sides facing, and trace the template on top, cut out of both layers of fabric, you will have two pieces of fabric, facing opposite ways.  Repeat with your hidden pocket fabric and the template.

Pin your visible and hidden pocket pieces together for each pocket, so that the wrong side of the visible piece is touching the right side of the hidden pocket piece (see below) and sew along the straight vertical edge and bottom edge (shown on image below as black lines).  Turn out each pocket and iron.

pockets construction pocketed apron

Pin a pocket to the left top side of the main apron piece (lining up the top and left sides). Sew a scant ¼” seam along the curve of the pocket (see black line on the first image below), making sure you are only sewing through the front fabric and the hidden pocket fabric.  Repeat on the other side. 
attaching pockets to apron pocketed

Put the apron to one side while you make the bias tape (if you are using ready made bias tape you can skip the next three steps).

Take your bias tape fabric and mark a 45 degree angle, or fold the top left corner over to create a diagonal fold, iron flat and then open out and mark the crease (this will be a 45 degree angle).  Then measure 2” down from this line and mark the next line, continuing across the whole of the piece of fabric.

Cut out the strips and then iron ¼” seams at each end of each strip.  Place 2 pieces together, right sides facing, with the creases lined up at one end (see second to last image).  Sew along the crease, open out and iron the seam flat.  Repeat until all the pieces are sewn together.

bias tape pocketed apron

Fold you tape in half lengthways iron flat.  Open out and fold the bottom edge upto the crease and iron, fold the top edge down to the crease and iron, fold the tape back in half using the first crease.

bias tape 2 pocketed apron
Cut a piece of bias tape long enough to trim the curve of one of the pockets.  Open the tape up and pin one of the raw edges (right sides facing) to the curve of the pocket, taking care to only go through the front fabric and hidden pocket fabric.  Sew together.  Fold the bias tape over the raw edges and pin into place (there will be no raw edges visible on the front or inside), sew into place with a top seam. Repeat on the other pocket. bias tape on pockets pocketed
Attach the rest of the bias tape to the outside edge of the apron (not the top edge) in the same way.

mainbiastape pocketed

Now for the waistband.  Take your fabric, fold in half and iron a crease, open up and iron a ¼” seam on each side.  Fold back in half.  Insert the apron into the tape, so that about 1” inch is covered and the waistband lines up with the sides of the apron.  Pin into place and then sew a top seam along the top and bottom of the waistband (DO NOT SEW THE SIDES).

waistband pocketed apron
Fold the fabric for the ties in half lengthways and iron the fold.  Open up and fold each long edge in ½”, iron the seams flat.  Fold in half using the first crease, but this time right sides together.  Mark/sew a diagonal line at one end (see image 2).  Turn out, making sure you push the point out, and that the raw edges of the tie are all folded into the tie along your ½” crease lines (don’t worry about the other short end).  Sew a top seam along all four sides (again don’t worry that you can see raw edges on one short edge).  Repeat with your second tie.

making tie pocketed apron
Insert a tie, about ½”, into one side of the waistband.  Check that it is straight and then sew a top seam along the side of the waistband.  Repeat on the other side.

ties on pocketed apron

pocketed apron trio

 Fabrics used are from the Riley Blake Bake Sale Collection, Anna Griffin Pinelope Collection and Riley Blake So Happy Together Collection (the orange polka dot is now discontinued but a similar one is available from the Hooty Hoot Collection).

Click here to download printer friendly instructions

Click here to download the templates

Click here to buy the apron as a kit

Click here for more free patterns, including more aprons!

Rag Quilt Free Pattern

I make no apologies for the number of pictures of this one, we love it here!  If you buy the squares pre cut you can create one of these great quilts in 3-4 hours plus washing and drying time, and they look so effective.

rag quilt
 Finished Size: Approx 44” Square


50 x 10” squares of fabric (we used Riley Blake Enchant Collection).
50 x 8.5” squares of batting (you could use flannel fabric).
Click here to buy all or some of these items as a kit


Cut all of your squares (you can buy all our fabrics precut into 10”, 8.5”, 5” and 3.5” squares, look at individual fabric pages or click here to look at bundles of fabric you can buy in a range of sizes).  Sort the main fabric squares into two piles, 25 for the front and 25 for the back.

rag 001

If you have bought this quilt as a kit you will find you already have the template that the sketch below shows you how to make.  If you are making the quilt out of your stash we strongly recommend making a template out of plastic or stiff cardboard as it takes a lot of the pain out of making up your quilt squares!

making template

Take your 1st 10” square from your quilt front pile, place it in front of you so you are looking at the wrong side (the back).  Place your template on top and place your batting in the space in the middle.  Remove your template and place a piece of fabric from your quilt back pile on top, so that the corners line up with the bottom piece of fabric. 

 TOP TIP: We used the same colours on both sides of each of these quilt sandwiches, so that when you turned the finished quilt over you didn’t end up with two pieces of the same colour next to each other.

Pin together then sew a cross through the sandwich, from corner to corner, you can do this by eye, use a pen that has ink that disappears when washed or as it dries in the air, or fold each top square in half diagonally and iron the crease into the fabric to use as a guide.

sewing cross

Repeat the last two steps with all your fabric pieces, you will end up with 25 ‘sandwiches’.

Lay your pieces out and arrange into your desired pattern, from this point on, the side you are looking at will be called the front, and the other side of the quilt the back.

pattern together

Take your first two pieces and put together so that the backs are facing each other.  Pin together and sew a ¾” seam down the adjoining side (the seam will run along the edge of the batting in the middle of each quilt sandwich). Open up and you will see that the raw edges are on the front of the quilt pieces sewn together.  
pieces together

Go back to your quilt pieces and add the next sandwich to the chain, always remembering to place the pieces together so that the backs are touching.  Continue until you have completed one row.

Place this row to one side (or back in your pretend quilt quilt on the floor!) and start the next row.  Continue this process until all your squares are sewn into rows.

line made up

Now you need to sew the rows together.  Take the first row and place the second row on top, backs touching (you should be able to see the raw/rag edges on both sides).  Pin together, taking care to make sure the joins between squares line up.  Then sew a ¾” seam as before. 
lines together

Open up and you should find the raw edges are on the same side as the raw edges in each row.  Continue in this way adding all the rows together.

rag 038

Now sew a ¾” top seam around the outside of the quilt, again this will be in line with the batting in the middle of the quilt sandwiches.

outside seam

Now get comfy as the next step takes a while!  Take a pair or sharp scissors and snip into all the raw edges at regular intervals.

snipped edges
 TOP TIP: The corners can be tricky as the fabric is sewn down into the adjoining square and snipping into the fabric can be hard unless you have super sharp scissors.  I found the easiest method for cutting in the corners was to stab the scissors through the raw edge fabric, once the initial hole was there I could rip the scissors up to the edge or use the hole to cut a line up to the raw edge.

Now put your quilt in the washing machine, once washed tumble dry it, the tumble dryer action will create the fluffy edges on the squares.

pocketed apron 039
You have finished your quilt!

Fabrics used: Riley Blake Enchant Collection from Cinderberry

Click here to download printer friendly instructions

Click here to buy as a kit

Click here to view more free patterns and guides on our blog

Cafe Style Unisex Apron – Free Pattern

                  Truly Unisex, as shown by our two models!

unisex cafe apron shots
finished cafe

Finished Size: 32” x 14.25” + ties!


18” x 44” for the apron front and pockets (if you want the pocket to be one piece of fabric, or want to pattern match the two halves you will need more fabric).

4.5” x 36” x2 for the ties.

8.5” x 16” for pocket lining.


Cut a piece of fabric measuring 34” wide x 17” long.  Fold in half, right sides together, so that the fold in on the left.   Place the template (available on the blog) on the opposite side, mark the right hand, curved shape, and cut out. cutting apron cafe
Fold the left and right edges over ¼” iron, then fold again ¼”, iron and then sew a top seam one each side (the raw edges will all be hidden in the seam).

hems on sides cafe
Fold the bottom edge over ¼” and iron the fabric, then fold over ½” and iron once more (the raw edges at the bottom are all now hidden).  Sew a top seam. bottomandside hems cafe
Fold the top edge over 1” and iron, then fold over 1” more and iron again (the raw edges are all now hidden).  Sew a seam along the bottom.

cafe top seam

For the pockets cut the off cut from the apron front in half, so that you have two pieces measuring 8.5” long.  Pin right sides together and sew a seam along the right hand side.  Iron the seam flat.

pocket together1 cafe

Pin your front pocket piece to the lining piece and check that you have a perfect rectangle.  Sew around all the sides, leaving a 2” gap along the top (away from the middle seam and the corners).  Turn out through the gap.

line pocket cafe
Make sure the corners are all pushed out and then iron flat.  Fold the raw edges (at the turning out point) into the pocket so you end up with a neat line.  Sew a top seam across the whole of the top of the pocket. 

pocket top stitch cafe

Position the pocket on the apron (there is no right or wrong place to put this, we just put it right in the middle). Pin into place and sew a seam around the left, bottom and right sides, and up the middle (following the seam line of the join between the two pocket pieces).

pockets on cafe

Take one of your 36” ties, fold in half lengthways (long edge down to long edge and right sides facing).  Sew along the open long edge.  One short end will be left as it is for turning out, the other end could be sewn straight down (for a boxed end) or, as we have, you could cut a diagonal and then sew. Repeat with the second tie.

sewing tie cafe
Turn the ties out and iron flat.  Sew a top seam around all the edges, don’t worry about the raw edges on one end, they will be hidden inside the apron later.

tie top seam cafe

Fold the raw end up as shown in the image below.  Then insert about an inch into the edge of the apron (the top edge).  Sew a seam over the end of waistband (where you have just placed the tie).  Repeat on the other side of the apron.

ties into apron cafe


finished cafe

Fabrics used: Newcastle Wishes Fabric

Click here for template.

Click here to download printer friendly instructions.

Click here to buy as a kit in store.

 Click here for more free patterns, including more aprons!

Christmas Sack – Free Pattern

chrsitmas sack monta
Finished Size: Approx 19” wide x 26” long


50 x 5” squares of fabric.
6” x 19.5” x4 (we used 2 different fabrics, one for the inside of the sack, one for the outside).
22.5” x 19.5” wide internal fabric x2.
¾ yard of piping cord or ribbon for the ties.


Sew your 5” squares together, to make 2 pieces of patchwork, 5 squares long and 5 squares wide. Trim the panels down to 19.5” wide.

case and sack 246

Sew a 6” strip along the top of each panel and then put the panels to one side.

adding top strip front
Take your internal fabric and sew a 6” strip on to the top of each piece (place right sides together, taking care to make sure your pattern will end up the right way, and sew a seam along the top).

internal top strip

Place one external piece on top of one internal piece (top strips lined up), right sides facing, and sew along the top.  Iron the seam flat.  Repeat with the remaining internal and external pieces.

in to out

Sew the two pieces together (right sides facing) along one of the long sides (internal pieces lined up and external pieces lined up). Open up.

sew along long edges

You will do the next step on both sides of the sack.  Mark 1/4” in from the outside edge, on the seam between the patchwork fabric and adjoining 6” strip, then mark 1” up from this mark (or up ¼” higher than the width of your chosen ribbon or cord).  You will now have two marks, ¼” in from the outside edge.  Cut up to these marks, fold the fabric back ¼” inch and sew into position. Repeat on the other side. 

Fold the sack in back in half, so that the internal pieces are on top of each other and external pieces are on top of each other.  Sew around the outside (you have already sewn one side, you don’t need to re sew it), leaving a gap of 2-3 inches in the middle of the seam at the bottom of the internal pieces, take care not to sew over the notches in the middle of the long side. Turn the sack out through the hole at the bottom.

seams on sack
Fold in the raw edges at the bottom. Sew a top seam along the bottom of the sack. Put the internal fabric sack inside the external sack, and iron flat.


Mark the channel for the ribbon/tape on both sides of the sack.  The bottom line of the channel will be the seam between the patchwork fabric and the 6” strip, the top line, the one to mark, will be level with the top of the notch you made for the tape/cord.  Sew along the marked line on each side (so you are sewing one layer of external fabric and one layer of internal fabric together at any one time) and then sew along the seam with the patchwork section on each side.

mark and sew channel

Put a long pin or safety pin in the end of your tape/cord, and feed through the channel you just made.

adding tape

If you are using piping cord, tie knots in each of the ends and you are done.  If you are using ribbon or tape you could just fold the ends over and sew a seam to stop the tape unravelling, but we would recommend making tabs for each of the ends, as these protect the ends and stop the cord pulling through the channel.

Take a piece of fabric, 2.5” x 2.5” and iron ¼” seams on all sides.  Fold in half and sew seams down the two sides that adjoin the folded edge.  Insert the tape end into the tab and sew a seam to close the tab, for extra strength then sew a cross, inside the rectangle.  Repeat on the either end of the tape.


Put your sack out for Santa!

chrsitmas sack monta


Make mini versions to give gifts to friends and family, children can use the bags to store toys and treasure, teenagers could keep their diary, jewellery or make up in them!

Click here to visit our Christmas Store and pick your own fabrics for your sack.
We used: Red Rooster Here Comes Santa fabrics, Clothworks Not Even a Mouse Fabrics and Fancy Pants Text St Nick Ribbon.

Click here to download printer friendly instructions.

Click here to buy as a kit in store.

Click here to view more free patterns and templates.

Glasses Case with Flexi Frame Closure – Free Pattern

This pattern is very simple but took many weeks to get right!  We found several patterns for glasses cases using these flexi frames online, but they all left the sides of the frame visible and we wanted an invisible finish.  We have made using the Geekly Chic range from Riley Blake and Bake Sale, again from Riley Blake for the patchwork version in the picture.  More information about flexi frames can be found below, and our instructions include how to make the same case without the flexi frame.


Finished Size: 9” x 3.25”


9.75” x 4.5” x2 main fabric
9” x 5” x2 lining fabric
9.75” x 4.5” x2 fusible fleece
9” x 5” x 2 heavy weight fusible interfacing
3.25” x1 flexi frame

glasses flexi frame


Take your 2 pieces of main fabric and iron fusible fleece onto the wrong sides. Pin the two pieces of fabric together, right sides facing.  Trace the external template onto the top piece.  Cut out, you will have two shapes facing opposite directions.  Transfer the channel markings onto each piece (shown as dotted lines on the template).

Repeat with the internal fabric, heavy weight fusible interfacing and internal template.


Pin your external fabric pieces together, right sides facing, and sew seams as shown on the image below:

glasses external together

Take two fabric scraps, 1” x a maximum of 2.25” wide (these will be hidden so can be anything).  Transfer the channel lines from the external template onto the fabric scraps, ¼” in from the long edges.  Place on the back of each internal piece, so that the top channel line on the scrap of fabric lines up with the channel line on each of the internal pieces, and there is ¼” not covered at each short edge.  Sew seams along the channel lines.

glasses channel fabric

Place the two pieces of internal fabric together, right sides facing, pin and then sew seams as shown on the image below (make sure the seams don’t go over the channel fabric).

glasses interneral together

Place your internal and external pockets next to each other, with the curved openings touching.  Then match up the top layer from each pocket, pin together and sew along the lines on the second image (you will be sewing along all the raw edges above the channel marked for the flexi frame). Snip into the curve above the sew line.  Flip the case over, line up the second pair of tops and sew in the same way.

pocket tops glasses

Turn out by pushing the external fabric into the internal pocket, and pulling it out through the end of the internal pocket.


Finish the internal pocket by folding the raw ends into the pocket and sewing a top seam.


Push the internal pocket into the external pocket.  Take your flexi frame and feed it through the gap left on the side of the case, making sure that you feed it through the channels sewn onto the backs of the internal pocket pieces.


Insert the pin into the top of the frame, and then push the small circle at the top of the hinge closed, I used the back of the scissors to push it shut.


Sew up the open seams on the external fabric, up to the point where the internal fabric starts (sew line is shown as yellow below, the point at which you stop is shown as a red dashed line).




We have included two templates for the external fabric, one more curved than the other, you can use either (the internal template is the same for both).

Sew together 2.5” squares to create a quilted effect, on the outside of your case, once you have sewn your squares together, cut into 2 pieces measuring 9.75” x 4.5” and treat as your main fabric.

Make without the flexi frame (download printer friendly instructions for more info).

Click here to download printer friendly instructions

Click here to download templates

Click here to buy in store as a kit

Click here to view more free patterns and guides

Pencil/Makeup Case with Internal Pockets – Free Pattern


Finished Size: Approx 7.75” x 4”


External   Pocket (makes 2 pockets)
8.75” wide x 4.75”   x2 in external fabric + heavy weight fusible interfacing.8.75” wide x 4.5” x2 in external   fabric + heavy weight fusible interfacing.8.75” wide x 4.75” x2 in internal   fabric

8.75” wide x 4.5” x 2 in internal   fabric

Inside   Pocket  x1
7.5” wide x 3.5” x   2 in external fabric + heavy weight fusible interfacing.7.5” wide x 3.5” x 2 in internal   fabric 
16” bias tape or fabric to make the tape
19”   zipper tape plus zips if not included (1x 9” and 1 x 10” zip)
2.5”   x 2” rectangle for zip cover (tab)


Making the External Pockets

Iron heavy weight interfacing on to the pieces listed with the heavy weight interfacing in requirements.

Take one external pocket piece measuring 4.75” long (with interfacing) and one piece measuring 4.5” long (with interfacing), place them right sides together, so that the bottoms and sides are lined up.  Sew a seam around the sides and bottom, starting and finishing ¼” from the top of the 4.5” long piece. Repeat.


Repeat with the internal pieces, this time also leave a gap in the middle of the bottom of a couple of inches for turning out (but do not turn out).  You will now have 4 pockets.

all four external

Place an external pocket inside an internal pocket, so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other.

case and sack 130

Sew seams along the top on both sides, matching up the corners of the two pockets.  You will then need to sew down from these seams to the existing seam on each side, taking care to make sure you are only ever sewing through the two layers of fabric (one internal one external) for the side you are working on.

hems on external

Turn out.

Push all the corners out and then fold the raw edges on the internal pocket (where you turned the case out) into the pocket (creating a neat line).  Sew a top seam along the bottom of the pocket.  Then push the internal pocket into the external one.  Repeat these steps with the remaining 2 external pocket pieces.

internal seam

Making the Inside Pocket
Place an external and internal inside pocket piece together (one with interfacing and one without), right sides facing, and sew a seam along the top.  Iron the seam flat, fold in half so that you can see the right sides, and iron again. Repeat with the remaining 2 pieces of fabric.

internal pocket together

Take your first zip and sew one of the inside pocket pieces on to it, taking care to line up the folded over edge of the fabric with the outside edge of the zipper’s teeth.  Sew the second inside pocket piece onto the other side of the zip, making sure you end up with a neat rectangle.  Once sewn into place, trim the zip at each end.

add zip 1

Putting Everything Together
Take one of your external pockets, you will notice that one side is taller than the other.  Place the inside pocket fabric (the piece with the zip) on top of the shorter side, lining up the edge sewn onto the zip, with the top edge of the shorter side of the pocket, ensuring that there is the same amount of space on the left and right sides of the inside pocket piece (see image 2).  Pin the two fabrics together (do not pin all the way through both sides of the external pocket, only the first two pieces of fabric). 

lining up sides
Sew the two pocket pieces together by sewing a rectangle, a minimum of 1” in from each edge of the inside pocket fabric, ONLY sew on one side of the inside pocket and the short side of the external pocket together, push the other side of the external pocket out of the way.

sew lines on sides

Repeat on the other side of the inside pocket with the other external pocket.


Peel the external pockets away and you will find the raw edges of the inside pocket, pin these together.

pinned midd;e

Make a length of bias tape to trim your inside pocket (detailed instructions at the end of this tutorial).   Pin one of the raw edges of the tape to the raw edge of the inside pocket, starting at the top of one side, leaving approx. 1” of the bias tape sticking out over the zip.  When you get to the corners, curve the tape round, and finish with 1” of tape sticking out at the top of the pocket on the other side.  Sew along the first crease of the bias tape, using your longest stitch.

adding bias tape

Fold the tape over the raw edges of the internal pocket (the raw edges of the tape and pocket will be hidden) and sew into place using a regular stitch, starting and ending just below the zip.


If your zip doesn’t already have a zipper attached, add one now.  Make sure the zip is closed (as far as possible).

Take the 1” at the top of the bias tape, fold up so that the raw edges are hidden and then fold over on one side (see image 2).  Sew into place.   Repeat on the other side of the pocket.

fold over ends

Now add the zip to the external pockets.  Line up the zip and the outside edge of one of the external pockets, making sure that at one end the zip hangs over by no more than ½” (there will be a couple of inches hanging over the other end).  Pin into place along the top of the pocket, then snip into the zip tape at the end with ½” hanging over, fold the zip tape at the snipped end, so that it follows the external fabric’s line, and sew into place (see images below).  Repeat on the other side. 

If your zipper needs a zip, add it now.  Make sure the zip is closed as far as possible.

Cut the other end of the zip so that it is no more than 2 inches long.   Take a piece of fabric to make the tab to cover the zip end (2.5” x 2”).  Iron a ¼” seam on all sides.  Fold in half and sew seams along the edges which adjoin the folded edge.

Insert the end of the zip and then sew over the open end.  For extra strength sew a cross in the square.

adding tab

Fill up your case!


Use PUL or laminated fabrics to provide a waterproof finish, either on all sides or just internally.

Fabrics used:  Riley Blake Little Red Riding Hood Border Fabric, Riley Blake Super Hero Collection and Sasparilla for the red star fabric.  Beige Zip Tape and Zippers.

Buy as kit here.

Click here to download printer friendly instructions including bias tape instructions

Click here to view more free patterns and guides.


Funky Door Stop with Handle – Free Pattern

Finished Size: Approx 6” wide x 9.5” high (to top of handle)


12” x 34”w main fabric
12” x 34” heavy weight interfacing
Rice, Beans or other dried pulses for the filling.


Take your fabric and iron on heavy weight interfacing (not necessary if your using heavy weight fabric).  Cut the template pieces out and stick the two parts of the main template together as directed on the template.  Trace and cut out your pattern pieces as directed on the pattern pieces.  Pin the two side pieces together, right sides facing.

doorstopwithhandle 011
Fold the right hand edge over to the left and mark where the sides meet at the top, then unfold and return to the mark, make a second mark ½” below it.  Sew a seam on right side, top to bottom, and on the left side, from the bottom mark to the bottom.

Iron the seams flat and then pin the base to the bottom, so that the right side is facing into the door stop and you can see the interfacing.  Sew into place.
doorstopwithhandle 018

Take the internal piece, fold in half right sides together (so it looks like the template).  Place the fabric on top of the main doorstop so that the handles match up.    Where the internal fabric meets the seam you have already sewn on the main doorstop, make a mark.  Take the internal fabric and sew up to that mark from the crease.
internal to crease

Insert the internal piece into the main doorstop, so that the handles are lined up and the right sides are facing each other, pin the pieces together.

Sew a seam starting 2” down the curved side of one handle, finishing 2” from the top of the other side.  Move to the other side of the handle and start sewing, from 2” down from the top, when you get to the seam you have already sewn in the internal piece of fabric (sticking up in the last image) stop, and restart your seam on the other side (do not sew over the seam), continue until you are 2” from the top of the handle.sewingtogether

Turn the doorstop out through one of the handles.

doorstopwithhandle 037

Take the handle ends, when these ends are sewn together they will make one handle, there are 2 pieces of fabric on each side, one will be part of the top of the handle, one will be the underside of the handle.  Take the underside handle pieces from each side (fold the top side handle pieces out of the way) and twist them round so that you can pin them together, right sides facing, lined up at the top.  Sew a seam. We will deal with the top pieces later.


Next sew a line of stitches around the top edge of the door stop, sew close to the edge (see later images to see how close), don’t sew the 1st two inches of each handle.
finishing seam

Now fill your doorstop, we used chickpeas, but anything with weight to it will work, a 2kilo bag almost filled two of these doorstops, we used an icing bag to feed the filling into the doorstop, and then topped up with some left over toy stuffing.

The last step is to finish the handle. Pin the two pieces of fabric together for the top of the handle, rights sides facing and raw edges lined up.  Check that when the seam is sewn both sides of the handle will sit together neatly, if not you may want to increase the size of the seam.  When you are happy with the look sew the seam.handleslast
Fold the raw edges inside the handle (I then ironed them to help with sewing).  Then finish the top seam on each side (the row of stitches near the edge) securing the raw edges as you go.lastsewing


Fabrics used: Geekly Chic from Riley Blake, Gracie Girl by Riley Blake

Click here to buy the fabrics needed and instructions as a kit for less than £4.50!

Click here to download the templates.
Click here to download printer friendly instructions.
Click here to view more free patterns!

Cute House Door Stop – Free Pattern

You can have a lot of fun with this one and your fabric stash!


Finished Size: Approx 6.5” wide x 9” tall.


Fabric of your choice plus heavy weight interfacing as follows:
6.5” x 7.5” x2 for the front and back walls
4” x 10” x2 for the sides of the house
4” x 7.5” x2 roof pieces
3.5” x 7” x1 for the base

3” x 6.5” x1 of flexi firm (extra stiff interfacing) or cardboard

Fabric offcuts for doors, windows and flower embellishments (quantity to suit your plans)

2x 7.5” of trim for the roof edge, we used pom poms and ric rac (optional)

Buttons for door handles (optional)

4” piece of ribbon for the chimney (optional)


Iron heavy weight interfacing onto your fabric and then cut out the following pieces:
4” x 7.5” x2 for the roof
6.5” x 7.5” x2 for the front and back walls
4” x 10” x2 for the sides of the house (cut the template shape out)
3.5” x 7” x1 for the base
3” x 6.5” x1 of flexi firm(extra stiff interfacing) or cardboard

doorstops and chess 026
Then cut out your embellishments (doors, windows, flowers), we recommend ironing on heat n bond adhesive before you cut the shapes out.

Place all the embellishments onto your fabric pieces, remembering to allow for the seams around each side of the house.  If you want to sew the embellishments onto the house then do so now, using a zig zag or blanket stitch, otherwise just attach with heat n bond ultra adhesive.

Sew on any buttons.

Attach the ric rac/pompoms to your front and back pieces with your longest stitch on your sewing machine, see images below for where to place the trim and sew lines.ricrachouse
Now place a roof piece on top of the front and sew together along the top.  Repeat with the other roof piece and the back of the and chess 060

Put your chimney ribbon on the roof of the front of the house, fold pointing down, with the raw edges pointing upwards. Place the back of the house on top and then sew together along the roofs. Iron flat and then trim to make a neat rectangle.


Now attach the sides of the house.  Start by matching up the seam between the house and the roof, and the point on the side where the roof slope starts, pin down to the base. Then work up the roof shape, repeat on the other side. Sew the seam on one side, top to bottom, on the second side leave a gap of 1.5” for turning and filling.


Attach the base to the house, right side facing into the doorstop.  Pin into place and sew on all sides.


Turn the house out and then feed your flexi firm interfacing or cardboard through the gap (you will need to fold it in half) and then manoeuvre it into place. Once in place, turn your house upside down and pin the flexi firm to the bottom to stop it moving when you fill your doorstop.


Fill the house with filler of your choice, anything heavy will do, we used chickpeas, then sew up the gap using ladder stitch.  If you are new to ladder stitch we recommend the following U Tube clip for a great demonstration.

Take the pins out of the base – finished! housemain

Fabrics used: Pimatex red polka dot for door 1, Blend Calypso fabric for door 2, Riley Blake Ladybug Garden fabrics for the front and back and flowers, Simple Life for the window, Anthology Blooming Lovely fabric for the roof. 

For templates click here

For printer friendly instructions click here

For more free patterns click here!

Reversible Waterproof Storage Baskets – Free Pattern

                  Great for the bathroom, pens or makeup!
Made using PUL fabric which is waterproof, wipe-able and washing machine safe.
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Finished Size: Small 6.5” wide x 4” tall, large 6.5” wide x 6” tall.

Requirements (small basket measurements in brackets):

8” x 27” (6.5” x 27”) long External Fabric (PUL)
8” x 27” (6.5” x 27”) long Internal Fabric (PUL)
6” x 27” (4” x 27”) Flexi Firm Interfacing (Or any very thick interfacing)

Method (small basket measurements in brackets):

Cut 8”x20” (6”x20”) strips and 6.5” diameter circles out of the internal and external fabric.   Cut a 6”x20” (4”x20”) strip and 6.5” diameter circle out of flexi firm.

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Place each strip in front of you, so that the short edges are at the sides.  Fold each strip in half, left to right, and sew down the short edge (1/4” hem) to form tubes.

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Pin the relevant fabric base to each of the tubes, and sew a ¼” seam.

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On the flexi firm base, cut notches into the raw edges, up to but not over, the seam.  Then turn the flexi firm basket inside out (so that the raw edges are on the inside). Put to one side.

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Place the two main fabric baskets inside each other, right sides facing, and sew a seam around the top, leaving a 2” gap for turning out. 

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Place the flexi firm shape inside the fabric pieces.

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Now turn out the basket, through the gap left, you will think it is impossible but persevere and it will suddenly pop out!  Manoeuvre the flexi firm shape into place.


Fold the raw edges from the turning out gap inwards, and then sew a top seam around the whole of the basket, securing these edges and creating a crisp line around the top.

top stitch

Pin the three layers of fabric through the bottom, then turn the top over so that the new top edge is in line with the top of the flexi firm shape.  If you want to make more secure you could sew a few stitches on each side of the turned over fabric.  Take the pins out of the base.

Fill your basket up!

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On the smaller basket we turned the top section over twice, still ending where the flexi firm started, hiding the top seam and making the turned over section smaller.

You could use fusible fleece instead of flexi firm, for a squashier basket.

Why not sew a few small circles in the base and then cut the fabric out from inside the circles, creating drainage holes.

Click here for the circle template.

Click here for printer friendly instructions.

Click here to buy these baskets as kits.

Click here to visit PUL fabrics.

Click here to view more free patterns.