Christmas Tree Table Runner Sew Along – Part 4!


Welcome to day 4 of our Christmas Tree Table Runner Sew Along.

If you’ve missed it so far here are some handy links:

Today we are going to tackle quilting and binding to finish your table runner!

By now you should have:

  • the top of your table runner all sewn together.
  • the binding strips sewn together and put to one side for later.

Part 4…

The Quilt Sandwich

In a moment we are going to create your quilt sandwich, but first you may need to join several fabric pieces together to create your backing fabric (if it is not already wide enough to cover the whole of your table runner).

Cut one piece of fabric approx. 5cm deeper than the depth of your table runner, this will go in the middle of your table runner.

Measure your table runner and add 5cm to the answer.  Now take away the width of the piece of fabric you have already cut.

Divide the answer by 2 and then add 1.5cm (1/2”) to the answer (this is to allow for the fabric that will be lost in the seams).  Cut two pieces of fabric this wide, as deep as the piece of fabric you have already cut.

Place one piece at each end of your main backing fabric piece, and sew into place – the idea is to avoid having a join in the middle of your table runner,  and to have a balance of fabric on each side of the seam lines (even if it means having more seam lines).



Now you need to create your quilt sandwich – comprising of your backing fabric, wadding and table runner top.  There are lots of different ways to do this, we recommend using Odif 505 basting spray as it saves lots of time pinning and repining!

If you are using basting spray, lay you wadding on the table (we used insulated/heat resistant wadding), cut slightly larger than your table runner, spray with basting spray and then position your table runner on top (in the middle), smoothing out any creases.



Turn the runner over and spray the back of the wadding with basting spray.  Place your backing fabric on top (it should be approx. the same size as the wadding) and smooth any creases out.

You are now ready to quilt.



Quilting

If you are an experienced quilter then go for it – using the pattern of your choice.  If you are new to quilting here is our quick guide…

Make sure your bobbin thread works with the fabric on the back of your table runner and turn your stitch length up to 3.

If you have a walking foot for your sewing machine, put it on now, if you don’t have one, don’t panic, you can use a regular foot, but will find you get fewer creases and the fabrics move about less with one – we recommend trying this project with your regular foot, and if you fall in love with quilting, go out and get a walking foot for your next project!


We recommend starting by quilting ‘next to the ditch’  the ditch is any seam line on your quilt.  Many quilters sew ‘in the ditch’ when quilting, to emphasis patterns or stop the quilting pattern from detracting from the piecing, but this is less forgiving than sewing ‘next to the ditch’, as a wobble when you are in the ditch will really show, next to the ditch and a little bit out is almost undetectable.


To sew next to the ditch, you are going to sew around the outside of each Christmas tree shape, accentuating the shape and magically making the joins between sashing strips less noticeable.

Position your table runner under your sewing machine foot ready to sew up the tree trunk (from the raw edge of the table runner up to the join with the main part of the tree).  The middle of your foot should be lined up with the ‘ditch’ – the join between the tree trunk and the filler strip. Move your needle to the side position, so that it is on the filler strip, just off to one side of the ditch.

  1. Sew up the edge of the trunk, stopping approx. as far away from the bottom of the tree as your sew line is from the side of the trunk.
  2. With the needle down, lift your foot and turn your fabric, so that you are heading along the bottom of the tree, still on the filler fabric. Go slightly past the end of the tree, by the amount your sew line is from the edge of the tree.
  3. With the needle down lift your foot and turn your fabric so you are sewing up the side of the tree.
  4. Continue in this manner until you get back to the bottom of the trunk, then stop sewing (you don’t need to sew along the bottom of the trunk).

Check the back is looking good and then move onto the next tree.

Once you have sewn around the outside of each tree you can choose to stop quilting, and move onto binding, or you could go back and sew ‘in the ditch’ between each piece of fabric that makes up each of the trees.   


Binding Your Quilt.

If you have a walking foot, leave it on for the binding.  You can use the edge of the foot for your seam allowance, when you see 6mm mentioned below, you will need to change this is your revised seam allowance.

Trim back the excess wadding and backing fabric and then square your table runner off once more – you will be amazed how much everything grows and moves when you quilt!

Now unroll your binding tape.  Place one end, still folded in half along the long edge, in the left-hand top corner.  Keeping the tape’s raw edges lined up with the edge of the table runner, place a pin in the tape approx. halfway between the first two trees – this will be where you start sewing the tape on.


If you like pins, pin the tape down to the next corner – BUT NO FURTHER.

Sew the tape into place from the first pin to 6mm BEFORE the next corner.  Then take your table runner away from the sewing machine to do the next bit.


Fold the tape back to form a triangle on top of the part of the binding tape you have just sewn into place – the unsewn part of the tape will extend up, in line with the next side of the table runner.



Fold the part of the tape which is extending above the table runner, back down the table runner, covering the triangle you made in the last step.  Pin the tape into place (making sure the raw edges of the tape are in line with the edge of the table runner on the next side, and the fold you just made is in line with the top edge of the table runner).



Sew down the next side, starting at the fold, stopping 6mm from the bottom of this side.  Repeat the folding process from the last corner and continue round until you are approx. 18cm (7”) from where you started.

Now for the join…

When you bind a quilt with tape made from one fabric, we recommend making your join on the bias (along a diagonal line, as it is less visible in the finished quilt) but because this tape is made up of squares sewn together, a straight line join is best – it will simply look like part of the existing design.

Fold both your pieces of tape back so that the folds butt up against each other in the middle of the gap.  Iron the creases into place, then pull both the pieces of tape away from the edge of your table runner, unfold them and pin them together, right sides facing, so that the creases are on top of each other.  Sew together along the crease.



Fold your binding back up and place it on top of your table runner.  If it lays flat, trim the excess tape away from the seam allowance, and then finish sewing the tape into place as before – if your tape is too loose, go back and sew another seam, if it is too tight, try stretching it a little, if it still won’t lay flat, you will need to unpick and try again.



Once the tape is all sewn into place, fold the tape up, away from the table runner.  Run around the edge with your iron, pushing the tape away from the table runner to get a crisp line.


Flip your table runner over and fold the binding tape onto the back.  You are going to hand sew the tape into place, just below the sew line from the other side.  If you want to pin the tape into place do that now, either with traditional pins or quilting clips, I find it easier to work without pins and would recommend giving it a try!



Thread a medium to long needle and tie a knot in the bottom of the cotton.  Make your first stitch into the back of the backing fabric, above the binding sew line (to hide the knot), DO NOT go through to the front, only through the backing fabric.

We are now going to create a ladder stitch to bring the binding down onto the backing fabric, quickly, and just where we want it.

Insert the needle back into the backing fabric, a few mms below the sew line from the other side of the binding DO not go through to the front, you are looking to make a stitch approx. 1-1.5cm (1/2”) long, that runs under the backing fabric, bring the needle back up out of the backing fabric.


Now take the needle straight up into the binding, you are looking to get the needle inside the binding’s fold, not all the way through both layers.  Run the needle along the fold 1-1.5cm (1/2”) and then bring the needle back out of the binding.


Now take the needle down into the backing fabric and repeat the process.  Continue going up and down, from the backing fabric to the binding, and before long you will have created a ‘ladder’ of cotton between the two fabrics.


Pull on the thread, the binding tape will come down to meet the binding fabric and all the stitches will be hidden!

Continue creating a few stitches, pulling them down and creating more, until you get near to the corner (a few inches/5-10cms away from the corner).

Manipulate the corner fabric to create a mitred (diagonal fold) edge.  I find it helps to pin into place for a few minutes, when I take the pins away everything stays put long enough to sew into place.


Sew up to the corner, then repeat the same stitches working up the fold of the mitred edge, sewing the top fold down on to the piece of binding underneath (the space is so small, one stitch up and one down usually does it).  Then continue around the rest of your table runner.


When you have finished all four sides, knot your cotton and trim away the excess thread – ta-dah!


Download a copy of this tutorial by clicking here. 

Don’t forget – you can buy this table runner as a kit in store – click here.

Please do share images of your table runners with us #printstopolkadots on Instagram, or find us on Facebook at printstopolkadots.

 

Christmas Tree Table Runner Sew Along Day 3


Welcome to day 3 of our Christmas Tree Table Runner Sew Along.

If you’ve missed it so far here are some handy links:

Today we are going to add the end pieces and tree trunks.  Then on day four, we will tackle quilting and binding.

By now you should have:

  • the main tree shapes all sewn together, with sashing strips in between the shapes.
  • the binding strips sewn together and put to one side for later.
  • a minimum of one 6.4cm (2.5″) square put to one side for each tree in your runner (for a standard runner you should have a minimum of 8 squares).

Part 3…

Trim the short sides of your table runner back straight (you will be cutting off the excess filler strip at each end).



Take your rectangle of filler fabric 20cm x 27cm long (8” x 11”).  Looking at the back of your fabric, place the template on top – it is really important that you are looking at the back of the fabric and that the template is on top with the writing on the template facing you.  Trace your template, then turn it around so it fits in the rest of the fabric, and trace around it a second time.

Cut the fabric pieces out and place one at each end of the runner to ‘square off’ the table runner.


Flip the left end piece over, on top of the table runner, the long diagonal edges should be lined up, you will find that a small nib of fabric sticks out over the bottom edge of the runner (see image below) this is correct.


Sew the fabrics together, iron the seam out flat.

Repeat these steps at the other end of the table runner.

Now is a great time to square everything off.

If you are new to quilting, this is the process of cutting the table runner straight on each side.  Make sure the corners are right angles and trim each side back straight.


Now we will move onto the tree trunks.  Start by cutting filler strips into the following sizes:

  • 6 x 21.2cm
    (If you have made a longer table runner you will need 2 more of these strips for every 2 extra
    trees).
  • 2 x 22cm
  • 2 x 10cm

You will also need the 6.4cm (2.5”) squares you put to one side earlier.

Lay your tree trunks out in your preferred design, along the top and bottom of the table runner, and insert 21.2cm filler pieces between them.  At the wider ends add 22cm pieces, and at the short ends place your 10cm pieces.


Sew the trunk pieces to the filler pieces, creating two rows of fabric, one above the main body of the table runner, and one below.

TIP: Once you have sewn a few strips and trunks together, place your new strip back in your design and check the trunks are landing centrally at the bottom of the trees.  If you have had to trim your trees back harder than me, or if your seam allowance is less or more than 6mm (1/2″), you may find the trunks are not central – better to find out now and adjust your strip lengths, than wait until you have sewn all the pieces together!


Now you are going to sew your new strips to the main part of the table runner.  The trick is to line the middle of the tree trunks up with the middle of the trees.  Fold the left edge of the body of the runner over, so that the tip of the first tree is on the fold, then press.  Then fold the left edge of the tree trunk strip over, so that the two sides of the first trunk are on top of each other (and the trunk is in half) – press this fold also.


Unfold the two fabric strips and then place the trunk strip on top of the main tree strip, right sides facing each other, with the two creases and raw edges lined up.  Stick a pin in the crease line.  Now line the middle of the rest of the tree trunks up with the middle of each tree.  You can do this by eye, using a quilting ruler, or by creasing the mid points of all the remaining tree trucks and trees and lining them up as before – pin into place.

Add any further pins necessary in-between the tree trunks and then sew the trunks into place.


Iron the seam allowance out flat and then repeat the process on the other side.


Square off the ends (trim away any excess tree trunk strip fabric back in line with the rest of the table runner).


The top of your table runner is finished!  Tomorrow we will start quilting 🙂

 

Christmas Tree Table Runner Sew Along – Day 2


Welcome to day 2 of our Christmas Tree Table Runner Sew Along.

If you missed day 1 – click here to download the requirements, templates and instructions to get you up to the point where you have all your tree shapes sewn together and cut out.

Today we are going to sew our trees together then tomorrow we will add the and add the end pieces and tree trunks.  Then on day four, we will tackle quilting and binding.

By now you should have:

  • your binding strips all cut, sewn together and put to one side.
  • a minimum of one 6.4cm (2.5″) square put to one side for each tree in your runner (for a standard runner you should have a minimum of 8 squares).
  • all your tree shapes cut out, using the template available to download in part 1.

Start by laying your trees out in your preferred design.


Cut 7 x 30cm strips of your filler fabric (put the off cuts to one side for later).

If you have made your table runner longer than ours, you will need one extra strip for every extra tree in your design.

Place one strip between each pair of trees in your design – DO NOT place any strips at the ends of the runner, only in-between pairs of trees.


Working from the left to the right, we are going to sew one strip to each tree shape.

Take the first tree on the left and the adjacent strip (this should be on the right of the tree).  Flip the tree over, so that:

  • the right side of the tree is facing the right side of the strip below,
  • the left hand long raw edges of the two fabrics are lined up,
  • 3cm of the strip fabric extends below the bottom left corner of the tree.


Sew the two strips together. DO NOT press the seam open.

Take a ruler and measure down from the tip, along the side of the tree without a strip attached, 1.5cm (5/8ths”) and make a small mark.


Press the sewn seam open.

Now trim the bottom of the strip back in line with the bottom of the tree.  DO NOT touch the top of the tree.


Place the tree back in your design.  Flip the next tree over onto the next strip, line the tree and strip up as before, remembering to leave 3cm of strip visible at the bottom of the tree.


Sew together and then press the seam open.   Now trim the bottom of sashing back in line with the bottom of the tree.  DO NOT touch the top of the tree.

Looking at the back of your tree, locate the bottom corner of the tree, on the side without the sashing and make a mark 6mm in from the corner (along the bottom edge).


Continue to work across your design, adding trees to strips, and marking 6mm in along the bottom of each tree.

When you reach the last tree you will not have a strip to attach – this is correct.  Turn the last tree over, so you are looking at its back, and mark 6mm in from the bottom right corner.

With the trees laid out in their final positions….


Fold the first (left hand) tree over onto the next tree, so that:

  • The right sides of the trees are facing each other.
  • The long raw edge of the strip is lined up with the long raw edge of the tree underneath.
  • The mark you made near the top of the top tree is lined up with the bottom edge of the bottom tree.


Sew the two trees together along the long raw edge of the top strip and then press the seam open.

Trim the strips back straight (in line with the bottom of the trees, both those facing up and down).


Now add the next tree.  This time make sure that:

  • The right sides of the trees are facing each other.
  • The long raw edge of the third tree is lined up with the long raw edge of the strip attached to the second tree (the bottom tree).
  • The mark you made along the bottom of the third tree is lined up with the outside edge of the table runner.


Sew the tree into place and press the seam open.  Then trim the excess sashing from the seam allowance on the back of your table runner and from the top of the table runner.


Continue adding the rest of your trees in the same way as the last tree.


Well done!   Tomorrow we will add the end pieces and the tree trunks 🙂

 

Christmas Tree Quilted Table Runner Sewing Tutorial – Free!


Christmas Tree Table Runner Tutorial
Approx. 109cm x 34cm (43” x 13.5”)

Requirements

One x Christmas Tree Table Runner kit – click here, or….

9 x 6.4cm (2.5”) strips of fabric (110cm/44” wide) in a range of colours/non-directional patterns for the trees – we used Dashwood Studio Twists – Click here to view instore.

5 x 6.4cm (2.5”) strips of white fabric (110cm/44” wide) for the areas around the trees (we used Dashwood Studio’s Twist in white) – will refer to these strips as filler strips in the instructions!

20cm x 27cm long (8” x 11”) of the same fabric you used for the strips, to fill in the ends of the table runner.

115cm x 40cm (45.5” x 16”) of wadding, we used heat resistant wadding.

115cm x 40cm (45.5” x 16”) of backing fabric (you could get away with using 110cm wide fabric if you are happy to lose a few cms from each end in the final trim).

You will also need our tree and filler templates – click here to download.

SEAM ALLOWANCE is 6mm (1/4″) THROUGHOUT.


Making a longer table runner

This pattern uses half of the tree fabric strips to make the trees and half to make the multi-coloured binding around the outside of the table runner. 

If you only use the tree strips for trees, you can double the number of trees you can cut from the same amount of fabric.  Simply add another fabric to your requirements list for the binding – you will be cutting 6.5cm (2.5”) strips from the binding fabric, and need enough strips to go around the outside of your runner, plus 15-20cm (5” to 8”) – don’t forget to increase your filler strips (allow 75cm for each extra tree), your wadding and backing fabric!

 

Instructions

Cut one 6.4cm (2.5”) square from each of your tree strips.

You need one per tree in your table runner, so if your table runner has more than 10 trees in it, you will need extra 2.5” squares, you can cut two squares from each strip without affecting the number of trees you can cut out.


 

Lay the remainder of the strips (the longer parts) out in front of you and decide on your layout (each tree will include 5 fabrics).


To replicate our design the layout should be:

1.       Red spots                   6.      Red swirls

2.       Blue swirls                  7.      Green spots

3.       Green spots               8.      Gold swirls

4.       Pink swirls                  9.      Orange spots

5.       Brown spots              10.    Mustard swirls

Place the bottom two strips on top of each other, right sides facing each other, and sew together along one long side.


Place your sewn strips back in your pattern and then place the next strip in the pattern on top of the top sewn strip.  Sew along the long raw straight edge.


Continue adding strips in this way until you have sewn all your strips together.


Now iron your seams out flat.


If you are making the same size runner as ours, you now need to cut seven, 6.4cm (2.5”) wide strips from your patchwork.

If you are using a separate fabric for your binding, cut that into sufficient strips (6.4cm/2.5″ wide) to go around the whole of your table runner, plus approx. 20cm (8“).


You now need to sew your strips together to make one long strip (this will be used to bind your table runner later on).   Take two of your strips and place them on top of each other, right sides facing each other, with the strips arranged to ensure that the two squares on top of each other on at right end are not the same.  Sew together along the short edge and then press the seam open.


Continue adding the rest of your strips to your chain.

Finish by ironing your tape in half long ways (so that the long raw edges meet).

Roll up your binding tape and secure with a pin for later.


Place what is left of your patchwork back in front of you and start drawing your tree shapes out.

Bear in mind that the tip of the triangle will disappear in your seam allowance, so you need to include a lot of the top fabric in your tree if you want to be sure to see it.  We found it useful to draw a line along the 5th fabric down, halfway down the strip, to use as a baseline for the tree template.

Work across the fabric, flipping the template up and then down, until you have filled the first five rows with triangles (if you are making our standard size runner you will have 4 trees drawn at this stage).


Move down to the second half of the patchwork and draw another line, this time halfway down the bottom row of fabric.  Draw your tree shapes as before.  You should now have a minimum of 8 trees drawn out.


Cut your trees out and lay them out to create your preferred design.


Tomorrow we will sew all the trees together!

 

Two Stitches Charlie Hoodie Sewing Pattern Road Test

Feeling excited about my new challenge to test out the Two stitches Charlie Hoodie sewing pattern, a great pattern for boys and girls upto age 9 – click here to view instore.


Claire sent over the fabric, Rico Woodland Camping and it went straight into the washing machine.

Fabric dry so time to set about the new challenge.

The first hurdle I hit is pattern matching the front, the front of the hoodie looks like an upside down Y shape, sounds easy but it is really important if using a patterned fabric to have the front middle pattern matched as it is so prominent, you can see it below cutting right through the Reindeer.


This was my second attempt as I had not thought about pattern matching on the first cut and ended up with reindeer head along with half a squirrel on a boat on the other side of the sew line!

The rest of the pattern worked like a dream the end result looked so professional, despite being so easy to make.


As we are going to add this to our children’s capsule wardrobe sewing workshops I decided to try again, this time altering the pattern to get rid of the join down the middle of the front – avoiding that tricky pattern matching!

I folded over the right edge of the front pattern piece (the side that becomes the middle of the front) by my seam allowance.


Then I folded the front fabric in half, right sides facing each other, and placed the amended pattern piece on top, with the folded over edge on the fold of the fabric.

My choice of fabric this time was Rico Magical Summer Unicorns in Party Hats!


The end result was perfect!

Conclusion cut on fold method is best for patterned fabric, whereas Y shape detail is nice on a solid fabric so best not cut on fold.

I do hope you enjoy making up this hoodie as much as I did.

Diana

Sewing School Events January to March 2018

We are so excited to share our sewing school programme with you for January to March 2018.

All our lessons are held just outside of Witney in Oxfordshire, in the village of Ducklington, at a venue with parking and no stairs to navigate.

You can bring your own sewing machine with you (it is always better to learn on the machine you will be using at home) or use one of ours.

If you have any questions email printstopolkadots@hotmail.co.uk, if you would like to make a booking visit our website – click here.

Take Your Dressmaking For Children to the Next Level…


We have a great range of sewing lessons coming up, designed to take your sewing skills to the next level whilst making clothes for children.

We hold all our lessons in Ducklington, just outside Witney, here in Oxfordshire and you can find out more about this course and all our other group and one to one lessons by clicking on any of the images below…

Course Overview

Our Intermediate Dressmaking for Childrens Clothes course can be taken in a block of 4 lessons, seeing you make 2-3 projects from the selection below, or you can choose to come along to a single, two or three lessons to focus on the particular projects you want to make.

The Projects

Trousers with proper pockets (Ages 1to 8).

Make a pair or versatile trousers, these can be day trousers or pj bottoms!  and add inseam (hidden) pockets or visible pockets as in the pair below.

“These are doable in one lesson and once you have this technique nailed you will be adding pockets to everything!”



Leggings (Ages 1 to 8)

Take a deep breath and face your fear of sewing with stretchy fabric whilst making leggings.

“In one session you will learn about how to handle stretchy fabrics from cutting out to finishing your fabrics and sewing – you will never look back!”


Girl’s Blouse (Ages 1 to 8)

This gorgeous blouse will really expand your skill set, with a pretty peter pan collar, sleeves, sewing with elastic and buttonholes all in this timeless garment.

This project takes an average sewer about one and half sessions to complete without homework.

“This pattern is so versatile it can be made in any fabric plus it can also be made into shirt dress with long sleeves, my suggestion make the shirt dress in knit to give it that beautiful warm soft feeling. Just right for those chilly Autumn days.”


Tailored Shirt (Ages 1 to 6)

This shirt is a true miniature copy of a grownup’s shirt, with a pleat in the back to help the wearer move with ease and a proper collar.

You will need two sessions to complete this shirt in class.

“Perfect shirt for that “just like Daddy” feeling, once technique has been learnt no reason not to up size and make one for Daddy too”


Unisex Hoodie (Ages 1 to 8)

Another project picked with those of you interested in learning to sew with stretchy fabrics in mind.  This soft and cuddly hoodie is perfect for autumn winter.

You could take this project on in a single session, but bear in mind you may find you have some finishing off at home – hems for example.  If you choose to make it over two sessions you may find you have time to squeeze in some shorts or leggings.

“A lovely cosy top that looks very professional but surprisingly  easy to make”


Skater Dress (Ages 1 to 10)

Little girls love to twirl in this dress!  Another make that is great for those of you who are interested in learning to sew with stretchy fabrics, this one can be made in a single session.

“This is a dream to make, the top is fully lined taking care of all those raw seams. It is certainly doable in one session even for new sewers. Girls will love to dance in this. Plus side of making in knit no ironing required just wash and wear.”


Reversible Dress (Ages 6 months to 5 years)

Perfect for age 5 and under and for the party season!  This reversible dress is suitable for all levels of experience.

You will need one session to make this dress.

“With a really clever technique for turning this dress out, you avoid any hand sewing!  This dress will see a very lucky girl through all seasons with the addition of a cardigan and tights in the colder spells”


Party Dress (Ages 2 to 8)

This is one of the more challenging makes on our intermediate dressmaking course, but it is worth the extra time taken to make this beautiful party dress.

Allow two sessions for this dress with a lined bodice, buttons up the back and a full, twirly skirt.

“This dress is mid calf length and has a very fully skirt, making it perfect for twirling. It is perfect for parties, although my granddaughter wears her’s as soon as it is back in the wardrobe.”


Note this picture is back of dress

Babygrow (Ages birth to 2)

Who wouldn’t be pleased to receive one of these beautiful babygrows.  Allow two sessions for this make and you will probably be able to squeeze in a beanie hat made from offcuts.

Tackle sewing with stretchy fabrics, binding stretchy fabrics and using poppers!

“So cute, it looks challenging, but is really not too difficult, trickiest bit I found was getting the poppers on the right way round!”


Dashwood Studio Merry Little Christmas Advent Calendar Sew Along


I have been having fun making these Dashwood Studio advent calendars from their Merry Little Christmas fabric range.


Claire asked me to make one up as a sample for the Pop Up Shop here in Witney, but each time a grandchild comes to visit and they see it, I get another request for one!

I am now up to number 4 and its only October!

I have learnt a few tips whilst making them, so have decided to share some simple instructions with photographs on making the panel and the quilting method I used.

Once made you can have fun, year after year, filling them with lots of little surprises!

Diana

 

Requirements

1 x Dashwood Studio’s Merry Little Christmas Advent Calender Sewing Panel

50cm x 60cm of fabric for the back of the calendar (in this tutorial we have used an off cut of a fabric from last Christmas, but on the others we used a Kona Solid, available in a wide range of colours).

60cm x 50cm of wadding for the calendar – we recommend using fusible wadding to save time, and have used Vilene H650 in this tutorial.  It is perfect for this project as you can fuse it to the front and back of the calendar and so avoid the need to quilt the layers together.

You will also need a doweling rod (42cm long) to hang your calendar (available at most DIY stores or wood merchants), or ribbon to create ties.

You can also buy all you need (except the doweling rod) as a kit at Prints to Polka Dots.

Sewing Instructions

1. Cut the back section from your advent calendar panel following the outer edge of the red seam allowance.


2. Cut the pocket strips out of the other half of the panel, cutting around the outer edge of the ecru seam allowance.


3. Press over the seam allowance over along the top edge of each pocket strip.


4. Make a box pleat between each pocket by bringing the sides together to meet the dotted centre line and press into place.



5. Press the side and bottom seam allowances along each pocket strip.


6. Line each of the pocket strips up on the other half of the panel, using the printed coloured squares on the backing panel as a guide (the order of the pockets is up to you, as the idea of a calendar is to have to search for those numbers!).

Pin each pocket strip into place at the sides and through the middle of each of the pleats to form the pockets.


7. Stitch the pocket strips down where pinned (outside vertical edges and vertical seams that make up the pockets) – don’t forget to back stitch as those little hands will put stress on these seams!


8. Refold the pleats and press the pockets, then pin into place, making sure the pockets are straight and the bottom corners of each pocket are touching the neighbouring pocket corners.

9. Stitch along the bottom of each pocket strip.


9. You will now have a completed panel


 

My Method for Turning the Panel into a Hanging Advent Calendar

1. Measure panel and cut backing fabric to size


2. Lay the backing fabric down, so you are looking at the right side.  Place the panel on top so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other, you will be looking at the back of the panel.

3. You are now going to sew the two layers together along the left, right and bottom edges (NOT the top).  IMPORTANT, start your sewing 3cm down from the top of one side (starting 3cm down will create the gap for the doweling to eventually go through).

Turn inside out (it should look like pillowcase)


4. Cut a piece of wadding the same size as the backing fabric to go in between the panel and backing fabric. (I used Vilene – Fusible Fleece 3 Fusible on Both Sides H650 as this does not have to be stitched through to hold in place).


 

5. Insert the wadding into your ‘pillowcase’ and get rid of any lumps (this is a bit like stuffing a duvet into its cover)!


6. Iron both sides of the cotton fabric, so that the wadding fuses on both sides


7. Topstitch along the sides and bottom excluding the 3cm left for the dowling on one side (the top edge will still be unsewn).


8. Make a loop for hanging using ribbon, fabric or bias binding folded in two and stitched. I cut a length the same size as the pole. But it is really personal choice – if you make your own loop, have fun with those stitches on your sewing machine for an extra special touch!


9. Turn the raw edges along the top of the calendar inside the calendar and press and pin the folds into place.

10. Lay the advent calendar out in front of you.  The next step is to push about 1cm of each end of the loop strip in between panel and backing to make your hanging loop. I measured in 3cm from each side.  Pin into place, making sure your hanging loop isn’t twisted.

11.Top stitch along the top of the calendar, as you did for the sides and bottom.close to edge along the top


12. Measure down 2cm from the first row of top stitches at the top of your calendar.  Sew another line of top stitches along the top, keeping 2cm down from your last line of stitches, to create the space needed for your doweling rod.


13. Cut a piece of doweling 42cm long and push this through casing.


14.  Close the gap you left for the doweling and sew.


Finished


Just need to have fun filling the pockets!!!

 

Dashwood Studio Tour Day 4 – Serengeti Fabric Collection

Check out Dashwood Studio’s latest fabric collection, Serengeti.  Designed by Elena Essex, the collection is inspired by the big cats and floral and fauna from the plains of the Serengeti.


As usual, we have created a short video to show this collection ‘in person’…

The collection is so new that we don’t have any images of makes to share with you for this one yet!  But we can see fun makeup bags and french knickers being made already!

You can buy the collection in store at printstopolkadots.co.uk, and please do share images of your makes #printstopolkadots on Instagram, or pop a post on our Facebook page printstopolkadots

 

What is Cotton Poplin?

If you are used to sewing with medium weight cotton fabrics (also referred to as quilting cotton) then you may not be familiar with cotton poplin.

Cotton poplin is a pure cotton, it isn’t mixed with anything synthetic, but it is a lighter weight than a medium weight cotton, so it has a soft drape which makes its ideal for dressmaking when sewing summer clothes, or outfits which need to drape the body in a soft way.

We have produced a short video to introduce this fab fabric to you, explaining where to use it and why, and previewing some of our cotton poplins along the way…

Don’t forget to check out our growing range of poplins in store…